Nagar is the valley everyone sees and nobody visits. It sits right across the river from its famous neighbour, and most travellers wave at it from a viewpoint. But the ones who cross the bridge find a quieter, softer version of Hunza; same mountains, same hospitality, none of the crowds.

The reason to come is Hoper Valley. Here two glaciers, Bualtar and Barpu, push down the mountain, and you stand on the ridge watching slow rivers of ice. On a clear day the views run all the way to Rakaposhi and the Hispar range, and the walk there, through orchards and past shepherd huts, is as gentle as walks get.

Nagar moves at its own pace. Mornings are for glacier viewpoints, afternoons for wandering poplar-lined lanes, evenings for watching the peaks turn red from a rooftop with a cup of salt tea. In autumn the whole valley goes golden, and the locals will tell you that is when Nagar is at its best.

If Hunza is the postcard, Nagar is the letter written on the back of it. Give it one night, and you will understand why we keep telling people to cross the bridge.